Port McDonnell, South Australia - A Story In Photos

I lived in Australia for forty years, an interesting experience because I cannot say that I ever liked it very much. It is a bit unusual for people to say this out loud but there you go. I was born there, I grew up there but I never took to it. I live in England now and I love everything about it. Go figure!

However, like most of life's lessons, it is never all bad and I was lucky to live quite close to the coast.  The coast is famously called the Limestone Coast and it is very beautiful (at least by Australian standards and through my eyes). Don't worry, another time I will tell you what I found so wrong with the place.


Port McDonnell is a small fishing town on this famous coast, about a half hours drive south of Mount Gambier in South Australia. 

Should you find yourself in this area, take a drive out there because it is not to be missed. Sit on the beach, eat fish and chips out of the paper and breathe in the pure sea air. Makes life worthwhile indeed. 
The sea gulls wheel around your head and the sea keeps rolling in, bathing the shore in promise of places far away.

I could go on waxing lyrical but the best way might be to show you some photos of this multi award winning area.

Port Mac, as it is affectionately known by the locals is primarily a fishing town. This first photo is the harbour and these boats are the work horses of the fleet.

Another one looking back towards the town from the jetty. Rock Lobster is the most sought after catch in the area, good specimens selling for extortionate princes across Asia. 

These little boats are like pit ponies - they seem far to small and insignificant to bear such a burden of responsibility.  Whole families depend on what they bring home.

This photo was taken looking back towards Mount Gambier. As you can see by the sky, there is some interesting weather on its way. This potential storm coupled with the high inland heat guarantees a major fire. Period.

This famous water tower has been part of the Port Mac skyline for ever. It is the first landmark visible on the hot and often dusty drive to 'The Bay', another local moniker for the area. 

Port Mac is no Queensland. Not for the locals the crystal waters with gaudy fish playing in the coral. No, it is a place of greys and dusty blues where the wind can whip up the hairs on your arms. But it is also a place of refuge where the summer weary people of Mount Gambier escape to in the evening after the mercury has long passed the 46 degree Celsius mark. 

Nothing is more welcoming on these  days than coming home to be told by Mum that we are going to The Bay to get fish and chips and sit on the jetty. Cool at last. Even the flies listen to this one!

It is a strange place though. The photo of the water tower, the fishing boats and this section of jetty were all taken on the same day, within quarter mile of each other. And look at the colours in the sea! This almost looks swimmable! 

Trust me when I say that it is cold. Bearable when travelling from The Mount (the Australians just love their nicknames for things. The Mount is what the locals call Mount Gambier), in fact all you can think about on the way down is how cold the water will be and that alone is refreshing. Until you venture into it. But it doesn't feel too bad once the nerve endings in your feet have died off. I have swum there and been happy to do it.

The jetty is old and could do with a little TLC. But it works and the walk out onto the harbour is worth while. You will nearly always find people sitting here and fishing and they will never admit to catching anything at all. Who knows if they do or not - the Aussies can be a bit cagey about giving away the secret to a good fishing spot.

They come for so much more than the fish. it is a pleasant place to sit and any troubles that you may have will be swept out to see on the breeze.

Across the harbour, the little boats wait for the next morning  tide. 

In this photo, you can see the size a little better. Some are not much bigger than an average family car. They will over winter here too, out in the open, tossed this way and that whilst the ever present sea gulls are their only companion. The fishermen themselves often hold second jobs in the South East's fast dwindling saw mills. This was once a paradise, sea in summer, mill in winter. 

The Ash Wednesday Fires in the early eighties put a rapid stop to that. 

Now the fishermen fish longer into the year and they are more aware that their 'winter job' may not always be waiting.

Wrapping a protective arm around the harbour is the breakwater, a sizable man made structure designed to protect the boats, the harbour and the town. It is a perfect place for climbing and fishing. You can see the end of it in the photo above.

The rocks of the breakwater are in the foreground, further away you can see one of the natural. There are some really lovely natural harbours in this area.

A glimpse through the rocks of the breakwater into the harbour.

These rocks are like lumps of iron. There are so many varied shapes that it is guaranteed that you will find a comfortable seat somewhere. You can drive a car part way along and the rest of the journey must be accomplished on foot - bear this in mind when planning the picnic because everything must be carried. The rocks are slippery too.

It isn't hard though and all along the breakwater, you can stop and go down closer to the water line. Here a flat rock becomes an impromptu table and a sheltered seat can be found nestled in the crevices. Heaven on a stick if a partner fishes and you want to relax and read. 

You can catch a rock lobster (locally known as cray fish) anywhere along the breakwater if you are fortunate. They like to hide under the rocks and the structure gives them an ideal habitat. 
They are quick though and you have to be on the ball. My parents once famously tried to improvise with a tea towel and sticks and were very nearly successful!

Thank you for stopping by! Remember, if you are ever travelling through South Australia, Port Mac or The Bay is worth a stop over. There are a few small places to stay in the town but the contrast between this and a similar place in Europe could not be more marked. 
This is not a town designed for tourists. It is a working hub of the local fishing industry and there are no fancy restaurants and very few accommodation choices. As a day trip from Mount Gambier, however, it is more successful and plenty of walks to make it a grand day out.

(C) Debbie von Grabler-Crozier 2014